Matt and Joanne’s Page

July 16, 2008

Rest days – nothing to do so I might as well rant..

Filed under: Random thoughts — joannestamplis @ 11:52 am

Ahhh…I love rest days. We are now in the Gilpin County Rec Area. It’s a pretty cool building with tones of fun stuff like basketball, real nice swimming pool with slide, pool table, showers and all we have to pay is $3 perperson. Seems like we have been climbing so much lately I’m starting to feel burn out. Of course, Matt always remains strong and enthusiastic. Well, I haven’t really been posting much and Matt pretty much summarized our experiences for us so I figure why not post something, a bunch of gibberish 🙂

Hmm, where should I start ranting. Well, yesterday Matt and I had a big fight on a climb. We were climbing ‘Ruper’ in the Eldorado Canyon and the first pitch supposed to get onto a lower ramp and then the next pitch starts somewhere on the ramp. Well, Matt went too high up on the ramp, resulting in my next pitch to be really weird. I ended up on the ‘Superslab’ climb which is 5.10d R and halfway on it, Matt kept shouting something to me, saying, ‘you need to move right, this is not the correct route’. The thing is where I was, moving right is not an option at all, it’s just a blank wall with think seam. So I got really annoyed, here I am, trying to focus on my lead and this stupid belayer just keep shouting shit to me, pysching me out. Luckily there was an old piton so I left a bail biner there and lower back down. Of course by the time I get down, there was a lot of yelling from me. I was angry because there was no communication from him to me, not until I’m already way up high trying to commit to a move that he start talking shit to me. Anyway, once my anger subsided we both really that he did try to tell me earlier but I couldn’t hear him. And I did ask him when I was lower down if I should downclimb and he didn’t hear me. Oh well, just another miscommunication I guess. We still had a great day, finishing Ruper (once we found the right way), Wind Ridge and West Crack on the Whale’s Tail. We saw so many people on the Bastille Crack, it’s crazy.

We spent 1 day at the Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon a few days ago. Well, how should I summarize the climb, kind of blah. We climbed Cussing Crack, Curving Crack and first pitch of Jackson Wall Direct. Well, the thing is everything is kinda slimy and the route is really just blah, nothing spectacular about them. Matt bailed after first pitch of Jackson Wall because the second pitch is so thin and dangerous. He did able to wander around and hopped onto the Jackson Wall 5.6 route instead but he didn’t want to climb that so he downclimbed back to me and we just rapped from first belay anchor. I don’t think we will spend more days at the Boulder Canyon consider Castle Rock was supposed to be the best ones.

Now, maybe I should rant a little about life travelling in our tiny little Honda Civic. I really do miss the RV, especially the fridge, shower and nice bed. Our substitute to the fridge is our Coleman cooler. Well, everything is just wet and nasty in it. Matt’s chocolate melted in the hot sun so we put them in the cooler instead. Well, now they are partly melted and wet and kinda gross, urgh. Instead of nice bed, we sleep in our 4 person 3 season tent instead. This works out really well except when there are high winds and crazy thunderstorm out there. When we were at the RMNP, we camped up high at the Monastery (free camping). There was a day where the wind was so crazy the tent looks like it’s going to break so we have to tear it down and sleep in the car instead. And then there are days where the dark black clouds are lingering above us and flashes of lightning are everywhere and we have to hide in our car again. Sleeping in the tiny Civic with all the craps in the back is not very comfortable at all.

Most of all, I really do miss my fuzzy pooch, Yogi who is now staying with my mother-in-law in Michigan. He’s been getting so much walks from her and my bro-in-law, Zachy that I don’t think he’s missing us at all. I guess he’s better off there than to cramp inside the car with us. We’ll get to see him for a few days in August before we head off to Malaysia.

Oh yeah, did I mention we already bought the tickets to Malaysia? Well, we’ll spend 2 months there and will be back in Oregon some time in November, in time for Thanksgiving? I’m really hoping that we’ll be able to get our life straighten again when we come home such as finding a job :). But for now, que sera sera, life is good.

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2 Comments »

  1. ooooo trip home to malaysia! well have lots of fun, and enjoy all the local goodies 😀

    Comment by Lil — July 16, 2008 @ 1:01 pm

  2. I KNOW!! I can’t wait neither 🙂

    Comment by joannestamplis — July 16, 2008 @ 2:03 pm


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