Matt and Joanne’s Page

February 12, 2007

Type A people

Filed under: Random thoughts — joannestamplis @ 1:14 pm

So I always thought that I’m definitely a type A behavior person. At least between Matt and I, I will always be the alpha ‘male’ in the family. I want things done the way I want and there’s only my way or no way at all. Anyway, after last weekend, I don’t really think I’m that strong of an ‘Alpha’ personality. I realized that almost 70% of the people in Mazamas are type A people. Everybody wants to be the alpha male. And you know you can only have 1 alpha male and no more, otherwise you know what’s going to happen.

Lots of argument and craziness. I feel like I can never make everybody happy in the class. Last weekend, we had our Cravasses Rescue training. We learned a variety of ways to set up a pulley system to rescue a patient that has fallen into a cravasse. Well, depending on which instructor you talk to, you will get totally different information. I wish they were more ‘this is just one possible solution’ instead of ‘this is how you have to set it, the other way sux’. They really drive me crazy. Even though I disagree and have my argument to defend it, I don’t think I can ever convince them my method because they are just extra extra extra Alpha people.

For the longest time, everybody has been using a sliding X or a cordelette to set up anchor system. Recently John Long released a new book on anchors, which introudces a new method of building anchors: the equalette. Well, just because he published a book about it doesn’t mean I need to completely throw out the old methods. However, that is not true with the Mazamas. We ‘ALL’ need to use an equalette from now onward and no others should be used. 1 Carabiner is no longer safe enough! Seriously, I wish they can think about how long people have been using the sliding X or cordelette and how many have died because of it before everybody jumps to the a conclusion that the old method sux. I hate to be an ignorant person and want to understand the reasonings behind every decision. But even though there are reasonings that an equalette is better, it doesn’t mean the old method should never be used. [Matt says “I’m going to be trying out the equalette this season and see how it works. It’s got some drawbacks but it appears they might be fewer than some of the other anchor systems.”]

So everyone has started talking about important equalized anchors have suddenly become. Well, I don’t really care, I like to do things in the most simple manner possible because it’s the safest thing in my opinion. If you have 3 perfect placements, why not just use the cordeltte? You’ll spend a lot less time monkeying around with limiting knots. In my opinion, I understand the difference between each system and understand the limitations in any anchor that I’m building. That to me matters more than trying to get too fancy and risk setting things wrong and putting yourself in greater danger.

Anyway, I guess I went off a little far on this tangent. My point is that I really really dislike the way Mazamas teach the students. Too many Alphas, too many ideas, everyone thinks they are right and everybody else is wrong. And I too am an Alpha and my way is the way I go by. If you want to climb with me, you are going to have to go with my way which is what I do. However, If I climb with Mazamas leaders I will go by their way. Simple, the leader will be the only Alpha allowed.



  1. I think we need to rename this page “Joanne’s Rants”

    Comment by Matt Stamplis — February 12, 2007 @ 3:51 pm

  2. Bla bla bla…

    Comment by joannestamplis — February 12, 2007 @ 4:20 pm

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