Matt and Joanne’s Page

November 1, 2006

Ape index

Filed under: Random thoughts — joannestamplis @ 11:33 am

So have anybody heard of the term ape index? It’s basically taking your arms span and compare it to your height and see whether your arms span is longer or not. Matt and I did a measurement 2 days ago and found out that my ape index is basically 0 – 5’2″ almost equal for arms span and height. As for Matt, his ape index is like 2 inches which means his arms span is 2 inches longer than his height. For a while I was wondering why I’m so much a weaker climber than he is. Well, now I found out why. Not only he is 5″ taller than me but now he get the advantage of 2″ more in reaching better holes for climbing. And obviously he is much stronger than me. An example to my major disadvantage: We found a 5.11a climb in Smith Rock a few weeks ago and Matt obviously redpointed it effortlessly. As for me, my hardest move is not even the actual crux. I couldn’t reach this darn hole which is like 4″ away and Matt doesn’t even have to work to get that hole. I did find an alternative to this hole but it involves 1 single finger pullup with poor footing. I think if I can do that move, I’m ready to work on a 5.12 (Matt obviously disagree because he never understand how it’s like to be short like me). I know I always complain about my height but now I have to complain about my arms :(. It sux to be short.


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