Matt and Joanne’s Page

September 18, 2005

Rooster Rock (Columbia River Gorge)

Filed under: Climbing — joannestamplis @ 12:00 pm

We made our second attempt to climb Rooster Rock. The first time we couldn’t find the route. We did more research and found out that we need to walk further along the highway before we got onto the trail. This was our first multi-pitch trad climb so it felt really good to make it up and down safely. Keep in mind we did this climb after 1 month of seriously climbing and were still quite inexperienced. For those who knew the route, after Matt climbed about 5 ft up on the 1st pitch, I was yelling at him to place pro :). The next year on May 10 2006, we went back to the climb with the Mazamas, I laughed at myself looking at the area where I yelled at Matt the first time. It was really just an easy 4th class scramble.

The 2nd pitch of the South Face (pictured below) is low 5th-class on fairly solid rock and good protection.

Gear notes: 50-meter rope (60 or 70-meters would have been safer for the rappel), 1 set of nuts, all anchors fixed.

We didn’t know how to get to the base of the climb and ended up walking around the wrong way through crazy mud. Don’t take this way unless you want to lose your shoes. (The correct way is to walk along the highway longer than you think you should).

If you look close you can see Matt leading the 2nd pitch. This was the first multi-pitch route that we ever did – somehow we survived 🙂

This is me on top of Rooster Rock. The view of the Gorge is awesome: now if we could just do something about the insanely loud highway noise.

Matt setting up the rappel from the beefy chains on the summit.

We only had a single 50-meter rope and it was just long enough to get down to a ledge where we traversed unroped over to the 1st-pitch anchors. A single 60 or 70-meter rope would be a little safer.


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