Matt and Joanne’s Page

July 1, 2005

Mt Washington

Filed under: Climbing — Matt Stamplis @ 12:00 pm

Mt Washington is a striking 7794 foot peak in Central Oregon. Its dagger pinnacle is amazing to look at and appears quite intimidating from afar. The most common route climbed is via the North Ridge, which starts on the Pacific Crest Trail. You follow the PCT for a few miles before turning left at a climber’s trail (usually well-marked with a cairn). This trail steepens and eventually gains the ridge. Continue on the ridge until you encounter a large genderme. The best way around this is to skirt around the right side of it before making your way back to the ridge. Read further down the page for our epic that was started when we passed this gendarme on the left and got into some really ugly rock.

After passing the gendarme and regaining the ridge, most climbers rope up for the final scramble to the summit (2-3 pitches if you climb the whole thing roped). There are several possible routes up the summit block. It is low-5th and 4th class climbing, but the rock is truly awful. I remember at one point discovering I was able to make hand holds in the rock with my finger nails. Not a real confidence booster. There is very little in the way of solid proteciton.

So now on to our little epic on this peak (yikes!):

In July 2005 I got it in my head that this peak would make a spectacular first rock climbing route for Joanne and I to attempt. Before this the only lead climbing of any sort that we had done was some real easy lines out at Horsethief Butte in the Columbia Gorge. But our confidence was high and we were pretty certain we could knock off Mt Washington, Three Fingered Jack, and Middle Sister in a 4-day climbing marathon. Of course, we would soon realize that the mountains are not always the best place to learn basic climbing skills.

Climbing at Horsethief Butte

Unknown route at Horsethief Butte. Here’s what I’m thinking about now: “Hey – I just lead this wicked dihedral: I’m ready for crumbly, exposed choss!”


Mt Washington (OR) North Ridge

Mt Washington’s North Ridge: I’ll give you $10 if you can find a piece of solid rock anywhere here. Just loose rubble as far as the eye can see. Actually, I think the rock on Broken Top was even worse than this.

“F***” was all I could utter as the loose block I had slung pulled loose and careened down the mountainside. The man-sized boulder took a bad bounce and headed straight for Joanne. She only had enough time to turn away from the run-away rock as it struck her in the shoulder and head and threw her off her belay stance. Our flimsy belay anchor probably would have held little more than body weight and failed instantly as she tumbled down. The rope, still running through her belay device pulled me with her.

My fingernails, boots, and knees dug into the steep scree, desperately trying to stop my slide, as I was pulled towards the cliff edge 100′ below us. I remember thinking, quite clearly, “We’re dead…”. And then, just as quickly as the rockfall had begun, I came to a rest, quite alive.

Somehow Joanne had managed to land on a ledge 10 feet below her initial belay position. If she had fallen any further she would have landed on a steep snow slope and would have certainly dragged us both right over the steep East Face of the mountain.

I quickly scrambled down to Joanne and tried to assess her injuries. She had blood coming from her ear, one of her fingertips was clearly shattered and she wasn’t able to move her right leg without great pain. She was also in a state of shock and was unable to understand what was going on. Her level of consciousness did not encourage me as she repeatedly asked me “Where are we?” “Why are we climbing Mt Washington?” “Is this a dream?”

I spent the next half hour constantly talking to her attempting to fully assess her condition. Although we were climbing on a beautiful July day, we were in the shade of the East Face and it was cold. I carefully slipped my backpack and rope underneath her body to insulate her. I took off all my clothes except for my long underwear and bundled them around her. It became very obvious that she was in no condition to walk out (let alone stand or crawl) and there was no possibility of self-rescue in this scenario.

I scrambled down the ridge and was able to get a cell phone signal and dialed 911. My phone got disconnected several times but I was finally able to get my message through to the operator and they told me they had contacted the SAR folks who were already on their way.

The SAR folks were able to reach our position in about 5 hours. Their response time was nothing short of amazing. It took a while to move Joanne from our precarious position on the East Face to the North Ridge where a helicoptor might be able to make a pickup. Unfortunately, a thick cloud cover moved over the mountain just as the helicoptor was approaching and they were unable to get close enough.

The SAR team spent the night lowering Joanne down the scree slopes, the standard descent for the mountain. We finally stopped when we reached the bottom of the slope and had reached a large open area. We spent a cold night, huddled among the rocks, happy to have the company of the rescue team. Finally, around daybreak, the cloud cover began to break up and the helicoptor was able to pick Joanne up. I watched her go up and away.

On the way to the hospital I remember turning on my radio and the first song that came on was Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds”. The first lyrics I heard were

Don’t worry about a thing
Cause every little things gonna be alright


Joanne ended up with a bad concussion with some internal bleeding in her brain. Her fingertip was broken and some bad bruising on her right thigh (we initially thought she had a leg fracture — fortunately there was no break!). She was walking slowly a couple of days after the accident. Just 2 and a half months after the accident we hiked the Timberline Trail and within 3 months of the accident she was leading her first sport climbs at Smith Rock!

Hiking around Mt Hood on the Timberline Trail

Joanne well on her path to recovery, hiking the 40 mile Timberline Trail!

We were incredibly lucky to get away from this mis-adventure with our lives. Although it didn’t stop us from getting back into the mountains it certainly changed our perspective and attitude towards climbing. You can read all you want about a route in a guidebook or online but if you lack the ability to judge current route conditions or the judgement to turn around when necassary, then all the beta in the world won’t help you.

The folks in Oregon’s Search and Rescue services: the first-repsonder team from Camp Sherman, the military pilots and medics, Linn County Sherrifs Office, and others (sorry I can’t remember all the other organizations that were involved) were able to save Joanne’s life. I am uncertain if she would have been able to make it through the night without help. Calling in a rescue should only be used in truly life-threatening situations, when self-rescue is not an option.


For many months after the accident, I was unsure if I wanted to go back to the mountain. But Joanne said she wanted to go back and conquer her fears. And so, just a little over a year after the accident, on July 15 2006 we summited Mt Washington with the Mazamas, in a group lead by Josh Lockerby.

Mt Washington Summit

Summit of Mt Washington: Note Joanne’s big head blocking the view of South Sister.



  1. Hello the two of you-
    I checked on your progress as Traditional Mountaineers again this evening. Congratulations!

    Have you checked my web accout of you adventure on Mt. Washington? Email or call if you like.
    –Bob Speik

    Robert Speik and also

    “TraditionalMountaineering is founded on the premise that “He who knows naught, knows not that he knows naught”, that exploring the hills and summitting peaks have dangers that are hidden to the un-informed and that these inherent risks can be in part identified and mitigated by information, training, interesting gear and knowledge gained through the experiences of others.

    The value of TraditionalMountaineering to our Friends and Subscribers is the selectivity of the information we provide, and its relevance to introducing folks to hiking on the trail, exploring off the trail, mountain travel and Leave-no-Trace light-weight bivy and backpacking, technical travel over steep snow, rock and ice, technical glacier travel and a little technical rock climbing on the way to the summit. Whatever your capabilities and interests, there is a place for everyone in traditional mountaineering.”

    Comment by Robert Speik — April 17, 2008 @ 7:58 pm

  2. It’s been almost 3 years since the accident occured. I guess I never did comment this blog personally so here are a few of my memories. Even though I am in great perfectly healthy now and the whole accident feels like it never happened, each time I looked back to the night I spent on the mountain, it’s pretty scary. I was tied down in a wooden carrier because the rescuers worried that I might have spine injuries. Now and then they would come and give me some shots for my nauseousness due to the head injury. I was so glad the moment the helicopter lifted me up in the air and boy was I happy when the nurse placed a hot blanket on me :). I will always remember the pain I have to endure the next 3 weeks because it was the worst pain I have ever experience. I had hematoma on my head and because of that my head constantly trobbing in pain. I was given morphine every 4 hrs for the 6 days I was in the hospital. Then I lived on vicodin for the next 2 weeks. I was so relieve the day I woke up and no longer needed vicodin. Surviving the epic is great and I learn that I don’t ever want to be in this situation again. If I ever in any doubt of my safety, I will never hesistate to back out and live another day to try again.

    Comment by joannestamplis — May 28, 2008 @ 11:11 pm

RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URI

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

Create a free website or blog at

%d bloggers like this: